Pepes Ikan (Balinese Grilled Spiced Fish)

• •4 snapper fillets, 1-inch thick
• •4 large banana leaves, cleaned and cut into 12-inch squares
• •8 toothpicks or kitchen twine
• •8 large shallots, peeled
• •6 garlic cloves, peeled
• •5 small red bird's eye chilies, deseeded for less heat if desired
• •2 medium red finger chilies, deseeded for less heat if desired
• •1 inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
• •1 inch piece fresh galangal, peeled and roughly chopped
• •1 inch piece fresh turmeric, peeled and roughly chopped
• •3 whole candlenuts, pan-fried or roasted until fragrant
• •1 lemongrass stalk, white part only, thinly sliced
• •2 kaffir lime leaves, central vein removed, thinly sliced
• •0.5 teaspoon shrimp paste (terasi), toasted until fragrant
• •2 tablespoon coconut oil
• •1 teaspoon salt
• •0.5 teaspoon palm sugar or brown sugar
• •2 lime wedges
• •2 tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the banana leaves: Briefly pass each banana leaf square over an open flame (gas burner) or steam them for 30 seconds until they become pliable and soft. This prevents them from cracking when folding. Set aside.

2. 2

   Make the Bumbu Bali (Spice Paste): Combine shallots, garlic, red bird's eye chilies, red finger chilies, ginger, galangal, turmeric, candlenuts, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and toasted shrimp paste in a food processor or mortar and pestle. Grind until a very smooth paste forms. If using a food processor, add a tablespoon of water if needed to aid blending.

3. 3

   Sauté the Bumbu Bali: Heat coconut oil in a small pan over medium heat. Add the spice paste and sauté for 8-10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the paste is very fragrant, darkened slightly, and the oil separates. Season with salt and palm sugar. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.

4. 4

   Prepare the fish: Pat the snapper fillets dry with paper towels. This helps the marinade adhere better.

5. 5

   Marinate the fish: Generously rub each fish fillet with the cooled Bumbu Bali, ensuring both sides are coated. Let marinate for at least 30 minutes at room temperature, or up to 2 hours in the refrigerator.

6. 6

   Wrap the fish: Place one marinated fish fillet in the center of each prepared banana leaf square. You can add an extra spoonful of Bumbu Bali on top of the fish. Fold the sides of the banana leaf over the fish, then fold the ends to create a secure, tightly sealed packet. Secure the packet with toothpicks or kitchen twine.

7. 7

   Grill the Pepes Ikan: Preheat a charcoal grill to medium-hot heat, or a grill pan over medium heat. Place the banana leaf packets directly on the grill. Grill for 15-20 minutes on each side, turning occasionally, until the banana leaves are charred and fragrant, and the fish is cooked through and flaky. The cooking time will vary depending on the thickness of your fish and the heat of your grill.

8. 8

   Serve: Carefully unwrap the Pepes Ikan from the banana leaves (be cautious of steam). Serve immediately with steamed white rice, fresh lime wedges, and a sprinkle of chopped cilantro. The banana leaf itself is not eaten, but it imparts an incredible aroma and flavor to the fish.

Chef's Tips

• 💡Softening banana leaves is crucial to prevent tearing during wrapping. If you don't have an open flame, steaming them works perfectly.
• 💡Adjust the amount of red chilies according to your spice preference. For a milder dish, remove more seeds or reduce the quantity.
• 💡Toasting candlenuts and shrimp paste before grinding enhances their nutty and umami flavors, adding depth to the Bumbu Bali.
• 💡Do not overcook the fish; it should be moist and flaky. The banana leaf helps to steam the fish while grilling, keeping it tender.
• 💡If you don't have a grill, you can bake the wrapped fish packets in a preheated oven at 375°F (190°C) for 25-30 minutes, or pan-fry them in a lightly oiled pan, turning frequently, until cooked through.